Belinda's First Day in Tanzania

**Fare thee well Ireland**

If someone told me last February that I would at this present moment in time be experiencing Africa from within its core, I would not believe them.   As a student, I often yearned for adventure and the possibility of travelling and seeing the world.   On June 15th last year I discovered that dreams really can come true.   After receiving an email from Maureen Mescall, co-ordinator of the Higher Diploma in Business Studies (which I had just completed), at the National University of Ireland, Galway, I was presented with an opportunity which I believed was too good to turn down, and to date, is an opportunity  I definitely do not regret.   After what can only be described as a tearful and apprehensive farewell to the ‘Hills of Donegal’, I departed the Emerald Isle on October 31st last on what was to be thirteen months of fun-filled opportunities, tears, laughter but most of all a life-changing experience.

On KLM53102, sixteen Irish enthusiasts and what I most certainly call good-hearted individuals and I made our way to north-eastern quarters of the African Plains.  The group included volunteers to build an extension to Malindi Secondary School and four friends and I to teach in the school for one year.   Touching down in Tanzania at Kilimanjaro Airport , we were greeted by officials from Tanzania’s educational district board and what was to be our mode of transport for our excursion into the ‘real Africa’  … a fifteen seater dilapidated mini bus.   This was the first introduction to African Life!   To call our means of transport small would be giving it more justice than it deserves.   After vigorous unsuccessful attempts to load our luggage and the sixteen people into such a miniscule space, we finally succeeded and were on our way.  

Due to sheer exhaustion and jetlag, we stopped in a town called Moshi on the outskirts of Kilimanjaro Airport and stayed in a hostel for the night.   Even though, I was wrecked, my mind could not settle and sleep evaded me for many hours as I was too excited contemplating what the next day had in store for me.   After listening to the cricket song echoing through the bare walls of our hostel, I eventually fell into a deep sleep.

The following morning, we were awakened to the chirping of different species of Tanzanian birds and the roar of the resident rooster.   After breakfast, we zigzagged along the undulating roads of Northern Tanzania, our Chinese imported bus enveloped in red soil that rose from the earth of this dramatic country.   When we turned off the primary road onto a slip road, I thought we were nearing our final destination, little did I know that we had a one and half hour expedition uphill yet to face.  To this day, it’s beyond my belief how that mini-bus managed to successfully make it up this mountain.   It raved, stalled, juddered and struggled with the over-excessive weight of luggage and people.   I had to endure some wise cracks in regard to my contribution to the weight as my two bags were both bulky and heavy BUT I was moving to Africa for a year after all! 

As we approached our territory for the next year, the screams of enthusiastic students could be heard in the  distance.  Monday, November 1st 2010 @ 2.15, is a moment in my life that will live with me forever.  I was overwhelmed by the welcome the residents of Suji and more importantly the pupils of Malindi Secondary School gave us that day.  I was undecided whether I wanted to cry or laugh.  It was amazing and emotional all at the same time. The enthusiasm of the children as I left the bus was touching and I nearly fell to the red earth of Suji in what can only be described as an over-exciting and heart-felt reception.   The young and old of Suji came together on that fine day and embraced each one of us with the warmest of welcomes to African soil.    Following many introductions, we were seated on a stage and entertained and introduced to African culture.   An unforgettable display of Swahali Music with the version of “Lisiniseme” echoing throughout the Paré Mountains and sang with such harmonious tones while the  females students gave us  a rendition of “Kiduku”, a national favourite.  

After a few hours of immense enjoyment we prepared ourselves for what was to be our first real African meal.  Displayed in front of us were various African dishes; I had no clue what some pots contained, and to be honest, do not know to this day, and I don’t think I want to know ha ha.   One could only imagine how delighted I was seeing Ireland’s staple food before my eyes – the humble potato - but in saying that African potatoes top the poll.   

After our meal, we were escorted by the school headmaster to our accommodation.    It was at this moment, I realised that I was a long way away from home…from home comforts.    I took a total adverse reaction and in a confused state, started laughing…uncontrollably!!   This was a bit inappropriate as along side me tears were shed by others at the fact that our living conditions were lets just say,  less than basic.   Our house, adjacent to the school and on the school grounds, contained four plastered walls which were unpainted.    The interior of the house consisted of an unequipped kitchen and by unequipped I mean it had a sink…period. The bathrooms were a major shock to the system, comprising of cement foundations, one had a normal looking toilet bowl while the other consisted of a hole in the ground, with a flusher of course!!! Couldn’t forget the flusher, sure that’s five star facilities around these parts.   Our sitting area consisted of a desk from the school and included in our new “accommodating dwelling”, four beds, three single and one double.   It was at this point that the prospect of sharing beds as well as rooms came into perspective.   I agreed to share the double with a fine Mayo woman by the name of Aine Staunton.   A wise decision!

Log in next time where I will reveal all top stories from Suji including all minor mishaps and how life in Africa has changed my world immensely.

A piece from Jim on the way to Dar

 The Pare Mountains 
  
The Pare Mountains are located within Tanga Province, which is the smallest province in Tanzania its total area being only around 14,000 square miles. This makes it a little less than half the area of Ireland. The province is situated in the north-east corner of Tanzania and is bordered on the north by Kenya, on the east lies the Indian Ocean with the islands that make up the Zanzibar archipelago. To the west lie the mountains; Meru and Kilimanjaro and the Masai lands. Within the province are to be found the  ranges of the Usambara – 7,500 feet – and the North and South Pare ranges – at 8,000 feet lies Shengena Peak – filled with thick evergreen rain forests, lush vegetation, a land of mist and fog  running with crystal clear streams. From all of this it is easy to see that the rainfall is high, when the main rain period, March – May can result in as much as 100 inches of precipitation. This area is considered to contain, both agriculturally and panoramically, the finest landscape in the country.
The people of the Pare’s live for the most part at heights of between 4,500 and 6,500 feet, thus there are no mosquitoes, which add to the attraction. The Pare Mountains covering an area of 3,000 square miles, form part of the Eastern Arc mountain range and are inhabited by the Pare people. The population is around 1,000,000.
The Pare people of today would appear to be the result of three migratory invasions going back some 300 hundred years, all emanating from tribes which lived on the Kenyan side of the present border. The first two waves are known as the Bwambo and the Pare; the final invasion came from the Taita hills in Kenya where the tribe were known as the Wemjema. They would appear to have established some leadership over the earlier tribes as a result of their skills in ironwork, rain making and in their use of herbal medicine. They bartered these skills with the neighbouring tribes, and gained both respect and the essentials for daily living – meat, salt, etc - especially from the Masai and the Chagga. In fact there appears to be a strong Chagga strain within the Pare today.
When the Germans were forced out The English appointed Pare chiefs throughout the area, these chiefs acted with a council of elders, this syzygy of chiefs and elders can still be seen in the politics of the mountains today. A single case will suffice to illustrate this – later, stay tuned.

Maize is the staple food, and the late arrival of the rains – they are here now, let me tell you. I had a shower last night with buckets of rain roaring down the corrugated roof, thunder the music and forked lightening to help find the soap when it slipped out of my hand. Beans of many varieties abound. Rice, fruit – in abundance - and the various European vegetables; potatoes, cabbage, carrots, onions etc are not in short supply. The biggest problem is a population explosion, there is just not enough land available, and now what land there is, is being eroded through the felling of trees both for building and fuel. An American group called ‘Floresta’ appear to be doing something in this direction; I don’t know the details - yet.

 

or something like that... jim, on the way to Dar es salaam for a well earned break.

View from Suji

St.Patricks Day / Tanzania....

We all went to meet the Irish Ambassador to Tanzania followed by an evening at the Ball.  Here we are with left to Right AnnaBella Fulham (Ambassador's Wife), Aine Staunton, Lorcan Fulham (Irish Ambassador) Aisling Mitchell, Aaron Cunningham and Belinda Crossan.