News: Mr’s Kiange, the mother of the man who had taken us on our mountain jaunt died, she was 98. The forth form mock’s are going on at the moment. The bank at home – T.S.B – has screwed up, again.
Leaving the Mountain is an adventure in itself. The only way down is through the good graces of the Seventh Day Adventists, we either use their bus or their open backed truck. The fare is now 4,500 schillings - a rise of some 12% recently, inflation here is astronomical. Anyway everyone get’s up at around five thirty as the bus leaves at six, ostensibly. There are a couple of gathering places, any one of which could be a trap vis-à-vis getting a seat, of which there are about 25. The bus has been known to hold up to 55 and it’s a tight squeeze. Why I was sqez in there last week like paint on the ceiling. The ride down the mountain in the early dawn is highly invigorating and can be hair-raising also, during the rains; there is a tendency to slide all over the very narrow road. The trip brings us to Mechana, then along the ‘highway’ ( bara-bara ) on into Same the district capital. All taking about two hours; God and the S.D.A willing. It’s from here that we explore Tanzania .
A few weeks ago – Easter actually – we hit out for Tanga, a large and, as it happens, very beautiful town on the coast. From Same it took about six hours. We were making good time when we changed busses in a small town called Kirogway, the bus from there to Tanga – 30 km – could reasonably have taken half an hour as the road is not bad … for Tanzania . We actually took something closer to two hours on what appeared to be the whim of the driver. God and the S.D.A give me patience.
On arrival at Tanga we went straight to a hotel on Independence Avenue – the Sea View, fronting onto the sea - it has a wonderful view of the bay and Toten – dead man’s – Island. The cook here, a man of Indian extraction proved to be fantastic and an all around good egg to boot may I say. The boy’s at the hotel, and girl, were wonderful and made our stay very enjoyable, providing us with bikes and generally chauffeuring us around. They also helped arranged trips to Pangani village with its attendant river and out to a sandbank and coral reef about five miles from the coast. But am I getting ahead of myself.
It was latish as we booked in, but we decided to go for a swim and dropped down to the sea just below. The fishermen were - in nautical terms - just ‘pulling in’. An active fishing spot it was a little too dirty for swimming. Then one of our crew – Aisling - had the brainwave to hire a small Dhow and sail over to the island, it was a grand trip followed by a grand swim. We had fish for supper that evening.
The Pangani River is bursting with crocodiles of which we spotted two. In fact we spotted just four crocodile eyes and one snout. Another interesting sighting will be reported by Aine Staunton in an article coming soon. A very wide river at its mouth – 400 meters – it is banked on both sides by mangrove swamps and has a real ‘Heart of Africa’ feel. The trip lasted about three hours and was very enjoyable and provided an extra frisson of excitement when one of ‘our gang’ tried to decapitate herself when she jumped into the crocodile infested waters on the way back – it’s o.k., I saved her … ha-ha.
Getting back to the ‘Indian cook’ – Muresh – the sauces were incredible and his ‘wali qua samaki’ is ta die for. The sand bank deserves a longer mention but I will leave that to someone else. It’s time for bed.
Now, on a lighter note, the bank at home: a few years ago these guys left me high and very dry up in Nepal , when for reasons that have never been explained they decided to render my card inoperative – on a whim I believe. I went to great lengths in my home branch - Galway - to ensure that the same would not happen again. Great promises and assurances were made – in Galway , mister L. don’t worry everything will run smoothly this time – and do you know what; they have done it again! More fool me. What’s the saying ‘fool me once shame on you, fool me twice…
Anyways this is Jimmy the beguiled signing off, stranded by the T.S.B once again, this time in Africa .